WORDS Klaas Hammer

In these challenging times, filled with conflicts and wars, daydreams often offer the only solace. Imagining a world of elevated luxury and glamour, where aspirations soar higher, extend farther, and embrace the concept that not everything needs to be tethered to reality. Allowing oneself to be delusional from time to time. This is precisely where the new Celine Homme Summer 24 runway show makes its entrance. Hedi Slimane introduces his latest collection, “Delusional Daydream,” through an engaging runway video.

Following the cancellation of the Men’s Summer 24 show at La Gaîté Lyrique in Paris in July 2023, Slimane filmed scenes for a movie in both Paris and Monaco. The locations included La Gaîté Lyrique, Le Grand Rex, and the Monte-Carlo Opera Garnier, showcasing classical ballet dancer Laurids Seidel. Seidel is the perfect match for the Celine videos, showcasing, through his ballet artistry, the diverse interests and artistic approach of Slimane once again. As models traverse a space adorned with golden mirrors, sequences of the dancer are interspersed. His expressive, powerful movements exude a distinct masculinity, presenting a dance style often traditionally associated with female performers for many. It feels like a daydream of the designer, where in one moment, he envisions his designs and imagines the most beautiful models in the world showcasing his creations. There’s a swift transition of these thoughts to dancing and then back again to the presentation. The designs are once again characterized by sharp cuts, sleek silhouettes, and a blend of timeless elegance and contemporary coolness. For example the couture bustiers, adorned with satin bows, draw inspiration from the court and ceremonial portraits of 17th-century France, particularly those captured by Pierre Mignard. It sounds so effortless and requires no overly opulent styling, yet the models exude sheer coolness. They resemble glamorous rockstars draped in low-cut leather pants paired with matching jackets, all in black, or even matching with the golden backdrop. Their attire includes large triangular earrings and, of course, the ultimate, almost arrogantly chic sunglasses. The recurring theme of “Le Tailleur” throughout the collection pays homage to the early days of suiting and the black silhouettes that defined Hedi Slimane’s work when creating Dior Homme. Exclusive fabrics, predominantly crafted on vintage looms, add to the collection’s distinctive charm. Hedi Slimane revisits his signature elements, including skinny black ties on white shirts featuring his renowned “5” collar (measuring 5 cm). The glossy effects reminiscent of the early 2000s make a comeback. The legs of low- rise pants are skillfully tapered and lengthened by a 5-inch heel, a trend set by Hedi Slimane in 2005. As always, a fashion comeback we’re thrilled to see on the
coolest streets of the world.